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| Yes, you can buy a better game… it’s all in the string & tension you pick. After taking lessons from a certified instructor, a new string job with the right string and tension will do the most to improve your game. If you’re the type of player that tells your stringer, “same string and tension,” this information will REALLY help your style of play, and help you win more games! DISCLAIMER: This information is strictly for beginner to advanced-intermediate players (4.5 NTRP and lower – to check your rating CLICK HERE for our NTRP self evaluation chart ). PICK A TOPIC: Guaranteed Improvement • What kind of string? • What gauge? |
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| How do you pick the right string and tension? | The 9 things you need to consider – and I would ask you – to pick the right string, string gauge, and tension are: 1) What do you like and dislike about the string you currently use? 2) Have you tried other strings – brands – types – gauges? 3) How much would you like to spend? 4) How many times per week do you play? 5) What’s your playing level (NTRP rating) and playing style? 6) Any arm or shoulder injury problems? 7) Are you looking for more power, control or spin? 8) Are you loyal to one particular brand – why? 9) What court surface do you play on? |
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| How to get the most improvement from your next string job? | If I haven’t seen you hit the ball, I won’t string your racket… sorry! Even when I ask you all the right questions, and I have nearly 20 of them, I still am getting the least objective answers (your opinion). The result is a string and tension selection that is the most hit and miss. But when I see you play; I know exactly how hard and how deep you hit the ball… I see the power and spin you put on your strokes and serve… I see where you contact the ball – center – high – low – in the frame. I see if you punch, block or cut your volleys… I know all! And with this information “I guarantee a better game” with my restringing! When your stringer KNOWS your game and style, you’ll notice the most game improvement from your next string job. |
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| What kind of string is right for your game? | With your answers to the 9 questions above, and information from the Racquet & String Facts you’re ready to establish your string picking priorities. All can be “fine tuned” (by string gauge & tension choices) to deliver what you want. Exceptions: speed of tension loss, and, Poly can never be as arm friendly as Gut or Multifilament. Here are the basic string types you have to choose from: NYLON & NYLON COMPOSITES A good all-around string category. This is the basic, and most popular string choice in tennis. Crisper feel compared with Multifilaments, good, but not as gentle on the arm as Multi or Gut. It’s reasonably durable and holds tension well. A good category of string when you’re looking for power and control. MULTIFILAMENTS The top category after natural gut. Best overall playability, gentle on the arm, but punishing to your opponent. The fraying (as they wear) may annoy some. Holds tension fair. Second most expensive string after gut. A good category of string when you’re looking for arm friendly, power and control. KEVLAR & POLYESTER This is the durability category; the choice for hard hitters, string breakers, and people without arm problems. Expect harsher hits (very harsh with Kevlar) with above average control. Kevlar (aramid fiber) is extremely durable and holds tension very good, but I would never recommend it as the only string in your racquet – hybrid use only. Poly has much more playability, it’s use is not limited to hybrid applications like Kevlar, and Poly holds tension fair. A good category of string when you’re looking for maximum durability and control. HYBRIDS When you use different strings in the Mains and Crosses it’s called a Hybrid String Job. This is how you super tune your performance. Do you want Durability and Control? Pick 17 ga. Kevlar mains and 16 ga. Multi, or Gut, crosses. Want more Spin, Durability and Power? Try a thin 18ga. Poly main and 16 or 17ga. crosses. Want Spin and Arm Friendly? Try a 17 ga. Nylon (Prince Syn. Gut) and 16 ga. Multi crosses (Gosen TecBio). String combinations (Hybrids) can match nearly every need closer than using only one string. You can even adjust tension between the two strings to further enhance the feel, control and power-pop. I typically go 6% to 12% less on the crosses depending on string choice and racquet design. Who uses Hybrids? Federer, Sharapova, Roddick, Capriati… and I do too! NATURAL GUT Made from cow intestines, it’s the best at everything; more power, more control, more comfort. Bad durability; a hard hitter/top-spinner can break a string in a couple of hours. Half the tension loss of nylon, but major tension loss if it’s exposed to moisture. The most expensive string. |
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| What gauge to pick? | Gauge has the most effect on feel and spin. Go thin! At least as thin as you can without breaking a string every month. Thinner gauges play better; and deliver more power, more control and/or spin (better bite on the ball). They simply feel better… and are less stressful on your arm. Start with a 17 gauge. Breaks too soon? Try another brand. Breaks too soon again? Move up to a thicker 16 gauge. But if the 17 ga. lasts… you’re in luck now… move down to a thinner 18 gauge which will give you even more of a good thing! My experience? Most recreational playing men should use a 17 ga., and most women a 18ga. Keep in mind that some racquets (widebody’s) are “string breakers” no matter what your style or power… start with 16 ga. |
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| What tension? | Tension has the most effect on “feel” and control; and some effect on power. You’re looking for ideal ball-pocket and snap-back with a crisp feel in your tension choice. It’s all dependent on your swing speed, the speed of the balls you receive, and string choice. Let’s pick a reference number of 60 lbs. and Nylon string – the ball pockets perfect and snaps back with power and control. If you switch to Poly it’ll feel stiff . You’ll also probably wonder where all your power went. (Yes, it is a stiffer string that returns little power, but by adjusting the tension down you’ll improve feel and power somewhat.) Now you switch from Nylon to Multifilament. Where did all that rebound come from? Why are my deep baseline shots now going long? I’ve had students mess up their game because they subconsciously shorten their strokes trying to keep the ball in, and when they swing with the proper stroke (long and full), criticize themselves for hitting long. It’s your string/tension choice… not you, I tell them! PICKING A TENSION The range stenciled on the side of your racket is a rough starting point… it’s for ALL players, men, women, young, old, hard hitters, moonballers, college aces, flat balls and spinners. My two cents? Start in the bottom third of the range. Need more depth on your ground strokes and pop on your serve, or does a hit feel stiff or harsh? Drop down 3 pounds. Shortening your ground stroke follow-through to keep it in the court, or does it simply feel mushy? Increase it 3 pounds. Did you know that some famous professionals (John McEnroe for one) have strung 10 lbs. or more below the tension range? THE SCIENCE OF TENSION When picking a lower tension – or your strings lose tension – more energy (power) is actually given back to the ball. Lower tension – or a loss of tension – may result in a loss of control… the ball goes further than your aim point. Speaking only of aging strings that have lost tension… to keep control, you subconsciously back off stroke speed and length, which lessens the “crisp feel at impact” (that oomph you got from the new strings) even more… this feedback is why players call aging strings “dead.” The biggest problem – loss of control – is due to two factors; 1) the trampoline effect of aging strings, and 2) a lower tension results in longer ball dwell time on the racquet… the ball stays on the strings and releases later in your stroke… when this new angle of release (launch angle) is not tuned to your speed and stroke style, you’ll shoot that darn ball all over the place. |
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| How long will a string job last? | I don’t care how little you play… no string lasts 4 months. There’s only one good way to tell. You, or your string pro, takes a tension reading 24 to 48 hours after it’s strung. (All strings loose 6% to 10% of their tension after 24 hours, then stabilize). When your regular tension re-testing shows about a 25% to 30% loss, it’s time for new strings, pronto. Your strings have lost their ball-pocket and snap-back consistency, no matter how they look. In general, strings that return the most power (elastic – greatest elongation) will lose their tension the fastest compared to poly which adds zero power (no elasticity) and holds its tension the longest.NOTE: The racquet after stringing (actual tension) will never read at your requested (reference) tension due to many factors. Better stringers, and better equipment produce readings within 10% to 15% of your reference tension. | ||||
| Who should string your racquet? | A qualified stringer is a certified stringer. A U.S. Racquet Stringers Association Certified Stringer has had to pass stringent testing and examination. They are schooled in, and rely on, hard scientific facts, not locker room myths. They will ask you lots of questions, they will feel better about helping you select a string and tension after they’ve seen you play. “But my guy has strung for (fill in a pro name),” you say. OK, if you play at that pro level. There’s a big difference between your needs, and a pro’s. I’ve got a “recreational doubles string job” that can really help your game. Miss-it often near the head? I’ve got a way to help that too. Need a bigger sweat spot? I have a solution. Wouldn’t a stringer, trained and certified to help non-professionals, have more of what you need? | ||||
| Does the string machine matter all that much? | A whole bunch! There are two types of quality machines; Spring Tension and Electronic Continuous Tension. A Continuous Tension machine (as the name implies) maintains a constant tension on a string to compensate for elongation and clamping. This results in a 10 percent firmer stringbed. (This machine strings the closest to your picked tension – or reference tension) And, did you know that stringer technique (straightening the crosses while tensioning) will produce another 6% increase on electronic, Continuous Tension machines? THE BOTTOM LINE Find out what kind of machine is stringing the racquet you like so much! I use an Electronic Continuous Tension machine, and it’s easy to give a customer a stringbed that feels much stiffer than they want if the last stringing was on a Spring Tension machine… especially if they say the dreaded; “same string and tension, please.” The only string equipment I don’t recommend uses “drop-weight” and/or “floating clamps.” |
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| DURABILITY | Luxilon Big Banger Original – 16 ga. | ||||
| Longer lasting strings | Prince Topspin w/Duraflex – 15 ga. (Best value) | ||||
| POWER & CONTROL | Gamma Live Wire XP – 16 and 17 ga. | ||||
| Maximum playability | Forten Thin Blend – Hybrid – 18 ga./17 ga. (I use this) | ||||
| ARM FRIENDLY | Gamma Live Wire XP – 16 and 17 ga. | ||||
| Soft as butter feel | Gosen Biogut Tec Bio – 16 ga. (Best value) | ||||
| SPIN | Forten Thin Blend – Hybrid – 18 ga./17 ga. (I use this) | ||||
| Top-spin & cut/dink shots | Forten Aramid Gear – Hybrid – 17/16 (Wicked spin) | ||||
| VALUE | Prince Synthetic Gut DF – 16 and 17 ga. | ||||
| Price & performance | Gosen OG Sheep Micro – 16 and 17 ga. | ||||
| MONEY IS NO OBJECT | Babolat VS Touch Natural Gut – 16 ga. | ||||
| Power, control, arm friendly | (only recommendation in this category – about $50 for the string) | ||||
| Read and learn more about string at www.tennis-warehouse.com. Players like you use and rate all popular brands and gauges. In their left side nav-bar, under Strings & Stringing, click String Brands. Click on your brand of interest and you’ll see a list of all strings made by that company with a “Customer Feedback” link on nearly every one. Excellent educational reading! What do they say about the string you use now? | |||||
